Deshedding Tool vs Undercoat Rake: When to Use Each

Last updated: May 4, 2026

The Tools Are Not Interchangeable

The deshedding tool vs undercoat rake question matters because the two tools work differently on a dog’s coat, and using the wrong one (or the right one incorrectly) can damage the coat and irritate the skin. Both tools target dead undercoat in heavy-shedding double-coated breeds, but they go about it in different ways and suit different routines.

The short version: undercoat rakes lift and pull dead undercoat without cutting guard hairs, making them safer for regular use. Deshedding tools (Furminator-style) cut and pull undercoat through a fine blade, which removes more hair faster but risks damaging guard hairs and irritating skin if used aggressively. Most professional groomers use undercoat rakes as their primary shedding tool and reach for deshedding blades selectively.

How an Undercoat Rake Works

An undercoat rake has a row of metal teeth, often rotating freely on a small bar, set into a handle. The teeth are designed to slide between guard hairs, hook into dead undercoat, and pull the undercoat out without cutting anything.

Because the teeth do not cut, an undercoat rake will not damage guard hairs even if used regularly. It removes substantial undercoat in heavy-shedding breeds during seasonal coat blow and helps maintain coat health between professional grooms. The downside is that it can take longer than a deshedding blade to remove the same volume of hair, and very tight or matted undercoat may not release with raking alone.

Common undercoat rake brands include Mars Coat King, JW Pet, and various other professional groomer staples. Different rake styles work better on different coats: longer teeth for thick double coats, shorter teeth for medium coats.

How a Deshedding Tool Works

Deshedding tools, often called by the brand name Furminator, have a fine-toothed metal blade similar to a comb. The blade is pulled through the coat in the direction of hair growth, cutting and pulling loose undercoat.

The blade also cuts any guard hair that comes into contact with it, which is the source of the controversy around these tools. Used lightly and infrequently, the cutting effect on guard hairs is minimal. Used aggressively, daily, or on a coat that is already thin, deshedding tools can over-thin the outer coat and create patchy, damaged areas that take months to recover.

The advantage of a deshedding tool is speed. During seasonal coat blow, a deshedding tool can remove dead undercoat substantially faster than a rake, which is why some groomers use them as part of a deshedding service.

Which Tool for Which Coat

For double-coated breeds with thick, dense undercoats (german shepherds, bernese mountain dogs, golden retrievers, huskies, malamutes, australian shepherds): undercoat rake as the primary tool, with optional limited deshedding tool use during peak coat blow. See our guides on grooming a german shepherd and grooming a bernese mountain dog.

For old english sheepdogs and other heavy double coats: undercoat rake plus slicker brush, with daily brushing during coat blow. See grooming an old english sheepdog.

For single-coated curly breeds (poodles, doodles, bichons): neither tool is appropriate. These breeds do not have a true undercoat to rake, and a deshedding tool will damage the curly coat. Use a slicker brush and metal comb instead. See our grooming a poodle guide.

For long silky-coated breeds (shih tzus, Maltese, yorkies): also not appropriate. These coats do not have a heavy undercoat to remove. Use a pin brush and metal comb.

For short-coated breeds with light undercoats (labs, beagles, boxers): a soft rubber curry brush or a light deshedding blade used very sparingly is enough. Aggressive raking is not needed.

Best Practice: Rake First, Then Slicker

For most double-coated breeds, the standard professional approach is undercoat rake first, slicker brush second, metal comb to finish. The rake pulls the bulk of dead undercoat. The slicker smooths the outer coat and catches any remaining loose hair. The comb verifies that the coat is mat-free.

This combination is gentler on the coat than relying on a deshedding tool alone and produces a comparable visual result during coat blow. It also distributes skin oils through the outer coat and improves coat health over time.

The right slicker matters; see our guide to choosing the best slicker brush for dogs. The metal comb is the test of whether your work is complete.

Pressure and Technique

Both tools should be used with light pressure. Pressing hard on a deshedding blade scrapes the skin, can cause brush burn, and over-cuts guard hairs. Pressing hard on an undercoat rake bends the teeth and can scratch the skin.

Brush in the direction of hair growth, not against it. Work in small sections rather than trying to cover large areas in long strokes. Pause and check the dog’s body language; flinching, licking lips, turning the head away, or trying to leave are all signs of discomfort.

Limit deshedding tool sessions to once a week or less, even during coat blow. The undercoat rake can be used more frequently because it does not cut.

What These Tools Cannot Do

Neither tool removes mats. Once a tangle has felted into a mat, an undercoat rake will skip over it and a deshedding blade will catch and pull painfully. For mats, use a dematting tool or, for severe matting, see our mat removal on dogs guide.

Neither tool is appropriate for single-coated breeds. Single-coated dogs (poodles, doodles, bichons, maltese, shih tzus, yorkies) need a slicker brush and metal comb instead.

Neither tool replaces line brushing on long-coated breeds. The line brushing technique is the foundational method for reaching the skin in any long coat.

Cleaning and Maintaining the Tools

Both undercoat rakes and deshedding tools collect substantial amounts of hair during use. Clean the tool every few strokes by pulling collected hair off the blades or teeth with your fingers or a comb. A clogged tool stops working effectively and starts pulling and tugging instead of releasing hair smoothly.

Periodically wash the metal teeth with warm water and mild soap, then dry thoroughly to prevent rust. Inspect the teeth for any bent or broken sections that might scratch the dog’s skin, and replace the tool when wear becomes apparent.

Quality undercoat rakes can last for many years with proper care. Deshedding tool blades dull over time and may need replacement every couple of years for heavy users; some brands offer replaceable blade heads for this reason.

Outdoor Brushing for Coat Blow

During seasonal coat blow, brushing indoors creates a hair tornado that takes hours to vacuum. Brushing outdoors in a yard, on a deck, or in a garage transforms the experience for both you and the dog. Hair simply blows away, the dog can move around in fresh air, and cleanup is minimal.

If you do not have outdoor space, work over a hard floor that vacuums easily rather than carpet. Brush a tarp or old sheet underneath if you want to capture and dispose of the hair in one pass.

Some owners save the deshed hair for use in birds nests or composting; if that interests you, store the hair in a paper bag rather than plastic to prevent moisture buildup.

For Adopters of Heavy-Shedding Breeds

If you are adopting a double-coated breed, plan for the volume of hair you will deal with twice a year during coat blow. Tools alone do not solve shedding; consistent brushing does. Buy an undercoat rake and a slicker brush before bringing the dog home, set aside time for daily brushing during coat blow weeks, and accept that hair on furniture and floors is part of life with these breeds.

For new adopters, our piece on grooming puppies for the first time walks through positive handling foundations. For dogs who dread brushing, muzzle training can keep sessions safe while you work on desensitization.

Tooth Length and Coat Type

Undercoat rakes come in different tooth lengths to match coat density. Long teeth, often around two inches, suit thick double coats like those of malamutes, huskies, bernese mountain dogs, and old english sheepdogs. Medium teeth suit golden retrievers, australian shepherds, and most border collies. Short teeth work for shorter double coats like labs, pugs, and corgis.

Choosing the right tooth length matters for effectiveness. Teeth too short for a thick coat will not reach the undercoat where the dead hair sits. Teeth too long for a short coat can scratch the skin underneath.

Single-row rakes pull less hair per stroke but allow more control. Double-row rakes are faster but can pull more aggressively. For first-time owners, a single-row rake is a sensible starting point.

Brushing Order for Double Coats

For a heavy-shedding double-coated dog during coat blow, the typical professional sequence is: undercoat rake first to lift the bulk of dead undercoat, then a slicker brush to smooth the outer coat and pick up loose hair, then a metal Greyhound-style comb to verify the coat is mat-free in friction zones. Some groomers add an optional deshedding tool pass for additional volume removal during peak shed.

This order matters because each tool does a different job. The rake reaches the undercoat. The slicker smooths and finishes. The comb tests. Skipping any step leaves work undone.

For routine maintenance outside of coat blow, the rake-and-slicker combination once or twice a week is usually sufficient. The deshedding tool is reserved for occasional use when undercoat volume is highest.

The Furminator Specifically

The Furminator brand popularized the deshedding blade category and remains the most recognized name. It is effective when used correctly and damaging when used aggressively. We cover the full honest review in our furminator pros and cons guide.

The same warnings apply to all deshedding-blade tools regardless of brand: light pressure, infrequent use, only on true double-coated breeds, never on already-thin coats.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use both an undercoat rake and a deshedding tool on the same dog?

Yes, with caution. Use the undercoat rake regularly as your primary tool and reserve the deshedding tool for occasional use during peak coat blow. Many groomers do exactly this.

Will an undercoat rake damage my dog’s coat?

Used correctly, no. The teeth are designed to slide between guard hairs and pull only dead undercoat. Pressing too hard or using an inappropriate rake style for the coat type can cause discomfort or skin scratches.

How often should I use an undercoat rake?

Once or twice a week during normal months on double-coated breeds, daily during seasonal coat blow in spring and fall. The rake is gentle enough for regular use.

How often should I use a deshedding tool?

Limit to once a week or less, even during coat blow. More frequent use risks damaging guard hairs and irritating skin.

Are these tools safe for puppies?

Hold off on aggressive deshedding tools until the adult coat comes in, usually between six and twelve months. A soft slicker brush is a better choice for puppies. See our grooming puppies for the first time guide for early handling.

What if my dog’s skin gets red after raking?

Stop the session and let the skin recover. Reduce pressure next time, switch to a softer tool, and check the rake teeth for any sharp edges. Persistent skin irritation warrants a vet check to rule out an underlying skin condition.