Paw Pad Trimming for Dogs: Hair Between Toes

Last updated: May 4, 2026

Why Paw Pad Trimming Matters

Paw pad trimming for dogs is one of the most overlooked parts of regular grooming, but it makes a real difference in comfort, safety, and skin health. Many breeds — especially Goldens, Labradoodles, Goldendoodles, Cocker Spaniels, Australian Shepherds, Newfoundlands, and Bernese Mountain Dogs — grow hair on the bottom of their paws and between their toes that needs regular trimming.

Untrimmed paw hair causes three predictable problems. First, on smooth indoor floors (hardwood, tile, vinyl), excess pad hair acts like a slip surface and the dog cannot get traction. Watch a long-coated dog skid on a kitchen floor and you are usually watching a paw-pad-hair problem. Second, the hair traps mud, debris, and (in cold climates) ice balls that wedge between the toes painfully. Third, the hair mats against the skin between the toes, holds moisture, and creates a perfect environment for yeast and bacterial infections.

A quick monthly trim of the paw pads and the hair between the toes prevents all of these issues. The tool is simple, the technique is forgiving, and even nervous owners can learn it with a bit of practice.

Which Dogs Need It Most

Not every breed grows enough paw hair to need trimming. Short-coated breeds like Beagles, Boxers, and Pit Bulls usually have minimal paw hair and just need an occasional check.

The breeds that most often need regular paw pad trimming include:

Coated retrievers and herding dogs: Goldens, Labradoodles, Goldendoodles, Aussies, Border Collies, Bernese Mountain Dogs.

Spaniels: Cockers, Springers, Cavaliers (lighter feathering but still benefit). See our Cocker Spaniel grooming guide for breed-specific feathering work.

Long-coated small breeds: Shih Tzus, Maltese, Yorkies, Lhasa Apsos.

Doodles and oodles of every kind: Goldendoodles, Labradoodles, Bernedoodles, Sheepadoodles. Read our Goldendoodle grooming guide for the broader doodle coat picture.

Working and arctic breeds: Newfoundlands, Saint Bernards, Great Pyrenees, Huskies, Malamutes.

If your dog is in any of these groups and you are not currently trimming the paw hair, the quick fix has been hiding in plain sight.

Tools You Will Need

The kit for paw pad trimming is small.

Curved blunt-tip scissors: The blunt tip is critical for safety. A pointed scissors near a moving paw is asking for an injury. Curved blades follow the natural shape of the pad. Pet-specific blunt-tip scissors (Andis, Wahl, Hertzko) cost ten to twenty dollars.

A small clipper with a #10 blade: Optional but useful for shaving the bottom of the pad. The corner of the blade fits between toes for the inter-pad area. See our clipper blade numbers guide for the full reference.

A non-slip surface: A bath mat, a yoga mat, or a folded towel on a table. The dog needs to stand or lie comfortably without sliding while you work.

Treats: Small high-value treats throughout the session. Paw handling is sensitive territory for many dogs and treats keep the experience positive.

That is the entire kit. No special skill or expensive tool is required.

The Safe Technique

Position the dog comfortably. Some dogs are happiest lying on their side; others tolerate standing on a table. Pick whichever lets you see the underside of the paw clearly without the dog struggling.

Lift one paw and look at the bottom. You will see the central pad and four toe pads (plus the dewclaw on the side, which has its own little pad on most dogs). Hair often grows up out of the spaces between these pads, and on hairy breeds it forms a thick mat that covers part of the pad surface.

For the bottom of the pad (the surface that touches the ground), trim the hair flush with the pad surface using the blunt-tip scissors held parallel to the pad, or use the corner of a #10 clipper blade carefully against the pad. Keep the blade flat against the pad surface; never push the tool into the soft skin between the pads.

For the hair between the toes (the top surface, looking down at the paw), gently spread the toes with one hand and trim the hair sticking up between them with scissors. Do not try to cut deep into the inter-toe space — just take the hair that protrudes above the toe surface.

For the hair around the perimeter of the paw, trim a clean line around the visible outline of the paw so the foot looks neat from above. This is cosmetic on most pet dogs but improves the dog’s grip and reduces debris collection.

Work one paw at a time, with treats and breaks. The whole job on all four paws takes ten to fifteen minutes once you and the dog are practiced.

What Not to Do

A few specific mistakes show up over and over.

Do not trim the pad skin itself. The black callused skin of the pad is meant to be there. Trimming it leaves the dog walking on raw skin and the regrowth is uneven. Only trim hair, not pad.

Do not push scissors deep between toes. The skin between the toes is thin and fragile. Spread the toes gently and trim only what is visible above the skin surface. If hair is matted down between toes, soak the foot in warm water first to soften the mat, then work it free with fingers and a comb before trimming.

Do not use sharp-tip scissors. A sudden movement from the dog plus a sharp scissors equals a puncture wound. Blunt-tip scissors are non-negotiable for paw work.

Do not trim if the pad is injured. If you see a cut, blister, burn, or foreign object in the pad, stop and address that first. Some pad injuries need vet attention, especially deep cuts or cracks.

Ice Balls and Winter Considerations

In cold climates, the hair between toes is the main reason dogs limp on snowy walks. Snow compacts into hard ice balls in the inter-toe spaces and pulls on the skin painfully. Long-coated dogs in winter are walking on what amounts to icy marbles between their toes.

Trimming the inter-toe hair short throughout winter prevents most ice ball formation. For dogs who still struggle with ice or who walk on heavily salted sidewalks (which irritates the pads), paw balm (Musher’s Secret, Pawtection) or boots provide additional protection.

After cold-weather walks, rinse the paws in lukewarm water to remove salt residue, dry thoroughly, and check for cracks or irritation. Salt and de-icer chemicals are hard on pad skin over a winter.

Mud, Grass Seeds, and Foxtails

Paw pad trimming also matters in warm weather. Long inter-toe hair traps mud (which dries and pulls on the skin), grass clippings, foreign material, and most dangerously grass seeds and foxtails.

Foxtails are a particular hazard in dry grassland regions. The barbed seed head migrates inward through skin and can cause serious infections, abscesses, and (in worst cases) require surgery to remove. A dog with trimmed paw pads is much less likely to pick up foxtails between the toes. After every walk in foxtail country, check the paws and inter-toe spaces carefully.

Grass seeds and other plant material can also work their way through the inter-toe skin and cause swelling, draining tracts, and infection. Regular trimming and post-walk inspection prevent most of these issues.

Frequency and Maintenance

For most coated breeds, paw pad trimming every four to six weeks keeps things tidy. Heavy-coated breeds (Newfoundlands, Aussies during shedding season) may benefit from monthly trims.

If your dog goes to a professional groomer, paw pad trimming is included in any standard groom. Between appointments, a quick scissor touch-up at home keeps things from getting out of hand. Many owners find that doing a quick pad check during weekly nail trims is a natural pairing.

Combine paw pad trimming with the rest of the sanitary tidy-ups (face, sanitary area, ear hair) and the dog stays comfortable between full grooms. Our sanitary trim guide covers the rear-end work.

Building Tolerance for Paw Handling

Many dogs are touchy about having their paws handled, which makes pad trimming harder than it needs to be. The same conditioning principles that work for nail trimming apply here. Build positive associations gradually with paw touches paired with treats before attempting longer trimming sessions.

For severely paw-shy dogs, the full nail trimming fear protocol applies to pad trimming too. Start with brief paw touches, build to lifting and inspection, then to actual trimming. Skipping the conditioning phase leads to forced sessions that erode trust.

Puppies introduced to paw handling early rarely develop these issues. See our grooming puppies guide for the conditioning approach to paw work in puppyhood.

When to See a Vet About Paw Issues

Paw pad trimming is a routine grooming task, but some paw problems need veterinary attention.

Signs to watch for: persistent licking or chewing of one specific paw, swelling between toes, draining sores, lameness, cracked or peeling pads, or a foul smell from the foot. These can indicate yeast or bacterial infections, foreign bodies, autoimmune skin disease, or even paw tumors.

Dogs with chronic skin allergies often have paw issues as part of the broader picture. Read our guides on atopic dermatitis and dog skin allergies for the bigger context. Treating the underlying allergy often resolves the recurrent paw issues.

Adopted Dogs and Paw Care

If you have adopted a dog and the paws look neglected — overgrown hair, debris between toes, long nails, irritated skin — start with a vet check before doing any home grooming. Underlying issues should be ruled out and treated first.

Once the paws are healthy, build paw handling and trimming into your regular grooming routine. Most adopted dogs benefit from gradual, treat-paired introduction to paw work. For more on settling in a new dog, see our dog care blog or browse adoptable dogs at our adopt a dog hub.

Frequently Asked Questions

How often should I trim the hair on my dog’s paws?

For most coated breeds, every four to six weeks. Heavy-coated breeds may need monthly trims, especially during shedding season or in cold weather when ice balls become an issue.

What scissors should I use?

Curved blunt-tip pet grooming scissors are the safest choice. Sharp-tip scissors near a moving paw are an injury waiting to happen. Pet-specific blunt-tip scissors are inexpensive and worth the safety upgrade.

Can I shave the pad smooth with clippers?

You can use a #10 blade carefully against the pad surface to remove hair flush with the skin, but never trim the pad tissue itself. The blade stays flat against the pad and only takes hair, not skin.

My dog limps after winter walks. Could it be paw hair?

Very likely. Ice balls form in long inter-toe hair and pull painfully on the skin. Trim the inter-toe hair short during winter and consider paw balm or boots for added protection.

What if my dog has matted hair between the toes?

Soak the paw in warm water for several minutes to soften the mat, then work it free with fingers and a comb before trimming. Cutting a tight mat with scissors near skin risks cutting the skin underneath.

Why does my dog’s foot smell after I trim?

A faint waxy smell is normal. A strong yeasty or sour smell suggests yeast overgrowth between the toes, which is common in dogs with allergies. See your vet for medicated wipes or shampoo and address the underlying cause.