Rabbit Hay-Based Diet: Timothy, Orchard, and Alfalfa Explained

Last updated: May 23, 2026

The 85-Percent Rule

The House Rabbit Society (HRS, rabbit.org) and most rabbit veterinarians agree on the foundational principle: at least 85 percent of your adult rabbit’s diet should be grass hay. Pellets make up roughly 5 to 10 percent. Fresh greens contribute another 5 to 10 percent. Treats are minimal — fruits and sugary vegetables are dessert, not a daily staple.

Hay is not optional and it is not a “supplement” to pellets. It is the foundation. Rabbits evolved to graze for many hours per day, and their teeth and gut both depend on the high-fiber, low-calorie input that hay provides. Skip the hay and you create the conditions for dental disease, GI stasis, and obesity.

This guide walks through the major hay types, why alfalfa is reserved for specific life stages, and how to build a balanced rabbit diet around grass hay as the centerpiece.

Timothy Hay: The Adult Standard

Timothy hay is the most common grass hay fed to adult pet rabbits in North America. It is a long-stemmed, high-fiber, low-calcium hay that fits the nutritional needs of an adult rabbit well. Most rabbits accept Timothy readily and will graze on it throughout the day if available.

Quality matters. Look for green color (not brown or yellow), a fresh grass smell, long unbroken stems with visible seed heads, and minimal dust. Bagged grocery-store hay can be acceptable, but many rabbit owners find better quality and price from rabbit-specific suppliers (Oxbow, Small Pet Select, Sherwood, and similar brands are widely used examples — not endorsements).

Timothy is available in three cuts. First cut is coarser with more stem and seed; second cut is softer and leafier; third cut is the softest and most palatable. Many rabbits prefer second cut. Picky eaters may need experimentation across cuts and brands.

Orchard Grass: A Good Alternative

Orchard grass is a fully appropriate alternative to Timothy. Nutritionally similar — high fiber, low calcium, low protein for an adult rabbit — orchard grass is often softer in texture and may appeal to rabbits who refuse coarser Timothy.

If your rabbit develops a sniffle, sneeze, or eye discharge that seems hay-related, orchard grass is often less dusty than Timothy and may be better tolerated. Always rule out medical causes first with your rabbit vet, but a softer hay can help respiratory-sensitive rabbits.

Many owners offer a mix of Timothy and orchard grass to encourage interest and provide variety. Meadow hay, oat hay, and other grass hays are also acceptable variations as long as they remain low in calcium and high in fiber.

Alfalfa: For Juveniles and Lactating Does Only

Alfalfa is a legume hay, not a grass. It is dramatically higher in calcium, protein, and calories than Timothy or orchard grass. For a growing rabbit under six months of age, or a lactating doe nursing kits, alfalfa is appropriate and helpful.

For an adult rabbit, regular alfalfa feeding is harmful. The calcium load contributes to bladder sludge and stones, a painful and sometimes life-threatening condition. The high calorie density contributes to obesity. The high protein can stress kidneys over time.

The transition from alfalfa to grass hay happens around six to seven months of age. Mix increasing amounts of Timothy or orchard into the alfalfa over several weeks. By eight months at the latest, the adult rabbit should be on grass hay exclusively, with alfalfa reserved as an occasional treat.

Pellets: The 5 to 10 Percent

Pellets serve as a concentrated source of vitamins and minerals to supplement the hay-and-greens base. For an average 5 to 6 pound adult rabbit, the typical amount is about 1/8 to 1/4 cup of Timothy-based pellets per day. Larger rabbits need a bit more; smaller rabbits less.

Choose Timothy-based pellets for adults. Alfalfa-based pellets are appropriate only for juveniles. Look for plain pellets — no colorful seeds, dried fruit pieces, or nuts mixed in. Mixed seed-and-pellet products encourage selective eating (the rabbit picks out the fun pieces and ignores the nutritionally complete pellets), which leads to deficiencies and rabbit dental disease.

Pellet freshness matters. Buy in smaller quantities so the bag is consumed within 90 days of opening. Stale pellets lose nutritional value. Store in airtight containers in a cool, dark place.

Fresh Greens: The Daily Salad

Fresh leafy greens add hydration, variety, and additional nutrition. The HRS guideline is roughly one packed cup of fresh greens per two pounds of rabbit per day, divided across one or two feedings.

Stick to a rotation of safe greens: cilantro, romaine lettuce, butter lettuce, basil, mint, parsley, dill, and small amounts of kale, chard, and spinach. Iceberg lettuce should be avoided due to low nutrition and potential for diarrhea. See our rabbit-safe vegetables and treats list for a complete reference.

Introduce new greens one at a time and watch the rabbit’s stool for 24 to 48 hours. A sudden change in cecotrope or stool consistency suggests the new food did not agree. Drop it from rotation and try again later in smaller amounts.

Treats: Truly Minimal

Treats should be a small fraction of the diet — closer to 1 percent than 5. Carrots, apple slices, banana, and berries are common treat options, but all are sugar-dense compared to a rabbit’s natural diet. A pea-sized portion once or twice a day is enough for training rewards or bonding.

Commercial yogurt drops, seed sticks, and processed treats marketed for rabbits are generally not recommended. The dairy and added sugars do not match rabbit physiology. If you want a packaged treat, look for single-ingredient dried herbs or freeze-dried plain produce.

Fruit-heavy diets contribute to obesity and dysbiosis (gut microbial imbalance) that can trigger soft stool, GI stasis, or worse. Restraint with treats is a kindness, not a deprivation.

Water Access

Fresh water must be available at all times. Most rabbits drink more readily from a bowl than a sipper bottle, and a ceramic or heavy stainless bowl prevents tipping. If you use a bottle, check daily that water flows and the ball is not stuck.

Water intake varies with diet. Rabbits eating more fresh greens drink less water from the bowl, which is normal. Watch for sudden changes — a rabbit drinking dramatically more or less than usual warrants a vet check.

Dehydration is a major contributor to bladder sludge formation. Keeping water fresh and accessible supports urinary health alongside diet management.

Critical Care for Emergencies

Critical Care by Oxbow (and similar herbivore assist-feed products) is a powdered formula designed for syringe-feeding rabbits who are not eating. It is the standard emergency tool for managing rabbit GI stasis and other anorexic conditions.

Keep an unopened pouch in your home if you have a rabbit. When a rabbit stops eating, hours matter. Having Critical Care on hand and knowing how to mix and administer it (your exotic vet can demonstrate) buys time while you reach the vet.

Critical Care is not a substitute for veterinary care — it is a bridge. Any rabbit not eating for 12+ hours should be seen by a rabbit-experienced vet promptly.

Common Diet Mistakes

The most common rabbit diet errors are: feeding seed-and-pellet mixes that encourage selective eating; feeding alfalfa or alfalfa-based pellets to adults; treating fruits and carrots as daily food rather than occasional treats; running out of hay between bag purchases; and shifting greens abruptly without watching for stool changes.

Another underrecognized issue: feeding too many pellets relative to body weight. Free-feeding pellets to an adult rabbit drives obesity and reduces hay consumption. Measure the daily pellet portion, do not free-feed.

Some owners worry about feeding “enough.” A rabbit on free-choice grass hay, a measured pellet portion, daily greens, and minimal treats is well-fed. Slow, steady consumption is the goal — not bulk volume per meal.

Transitioning Diet Safely

When changing pellet brands, hay types, or introducing new greens, transition slowly. Mix old and new at 75/25 for several days, then 50/50, then 25/75, then complete switch. The 7-day transition protocol works well for rabbits as a starting framework.

Watch stool consistency and cecotrope production throughout. A healthy transition shows no significant stool change. Diarrhea, soft stool, or sudden anorexia means stop and consult your vet.

Some rabbits resist new hay or pellet brands initially. Patience and gradual mixing usually wins. Occasionally a rabbit truly refuses a brand — that is feedback to try another option.

Working with Your Exotic Vet on Diet

Wellness exam visits with your exotic rabbit vet are an opportunity to review diet. Bring a list of what you feed, including brand names and approximate quantities. Your vet can flag overfeeding, underfeeding, or specific deficiencies based on body condition scoring.

Senior rabbits, rabbits with dental issues, and rabbits recovering from illness may need diet modifications. Your vet’s individualized guidance trumps any general framework — including this article.

Keep dietary changes within the HRS framework and discuss anything outside it (homemade pellets, specialty diets, supplements) with your vet first.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much hay does my rabbit actually need?

A pile roughly the size of your rabbit’s body, refreshed daily. Most adult rabbits eat through that volume of grass hay every 24 hours when it is fresh and accessible.

My rabbit won’t eat hay. What should I do?

First, verify the hay is fresh and the rabbit is not full on pellets or treats. Reduce pellets temporarily to drive hay consumption. Try a different cut or hay type (second cut Timothy, orchard grass). If the rabbit still refuses, consult your exotic vet — dental disease is a common hidden cause.

Can I feed alfalfa as an occasional treat to an adult rabbit?

An occasional small handful is generally acceptable, but it should not be a daily staple. Rabbits prone to bladder sludge or kidney issues should avoid alfalfa entirely.

Are pellet-free diets okay for adult rabbits?

Some experienced rabbit owners successfully feed hay-and-greens-only diets, but it requires more careful greens variety to ensure vitamin and mineral balance. Discuss with your exotic vet before eliminating pellets.

What if my rabbit overeats pellets and ignores hay?

Reduce pellet quantity to the measured 1/8 to 1/4 cup daily portion and refuse to top up. Hungry rabbits eat hay. The shift takes a few days to a week.